Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.

A serendipitous meeting while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the path of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the London's buzzing 1990s cultural landscape, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.

"It was the height of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be great friends. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that energy."

Although Enninful appears wistful, he is far from alone. Recently, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. But over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "In my view, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he says. "This isn't just this country – it’s everywhere."

A Cultural Backslide

This regression is increasingly evident: the rise of far-right politics, the pushback against so-called "wokeness", and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the Blair era, now a more divisive political figure stands as a possible leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an emblem of Cool Britannia, has sparked debate once more.

According to Enninful, the solution has long been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the guiding principle behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, featuring a wide range of influential figures from politics.

"People with a voice should wield it," he comments, referring to those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain were not a welcoming country, if it hadn't given my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I hope this phase will fade."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He takes comfort in the younger generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They talk about unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."

The beginnings of his career would forge a trailblazing career built on fearlessness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first male, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His time featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Significantly, sales increased.

"To overlook large portions of the population, it’s not just that you’re excluding people – it’s a poor strategy," he explains.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has recently launched his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since departing his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator".

"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where the majority was Black – the physicians, the lawyers, the president. Then we arrived in England, without funds, and I found myself on the margins. I was painfully reserved. My teachers declared I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … all that gave me a sense of being both an insider and outsider."

In contrast to the caricature of fashion editors as brash and temperamental, Enninful is measured in tone and radiates serenity. His life has involved hardship, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and substance use.

He has also endured significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to limited vision. "I endured such a time of fear for two years, not working, terrified I was going to lose my sight. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to be defined narrowly has led him outside the world that built his career. He is now organising a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a host of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to evoke the decade's creative cross-pollination – and spotlight those who weren't given due recognition at the time.

"The establishment didn't always shine a light on the truly innovative creators because they did not have the traditional credentials," he comments.

This project itself operates on a novel business model, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "We ask, what can we do together? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a larger creative platform."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His journey, he feels, is a proof to the power of pursuing your passions.

How would the younger Edward make of the his current self? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. Back then I was sceptical of institutions. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have underestimated me my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."